Next, the four of us headed up to El Calafate where we again rented a car to drive to the Perito Moreno Glacier. It's this huge dynamic glacier. We just sat for a while watching and listening to big hunks crash into the water. The blue ice was a very deep and clear blue. It was really amazing to think about how old the ice was. It seemed so close that we could touch it. While in Calafate, Nati, Fitz, Seamus, and I decided that we would attempt to conquer the ' W ' trek. It's is a famous 5 day hike through Torres del Paine National Park (yeah, I didn't know about it either).
The jumping off point for Torres del Paine is Puerto Natales. We spent one afternoon renting all of the necessary camping gear, buying food for a week, and packing it all up. Our hostel owner Omar, a tall skinny long haired Chilean, hooked us up with a thermos for hot soup. It was my first time hiking while carrying a big pack, so I was excited for the challenge.
Day 1 of the hike was brutal. The terrain was actually quite easy, but the wind was blowing against us. I estimate at upwards of 70mph. I've learned that I will not survive a hurricane. There were moments that I swear I was standing at a 45 degree angle with one leg trying it's mightiest to move forward. We were rewarded at the end with a royal blue lake.
Day 2 was a long hike up and back from Glacier Grey in crap weather and then across to a free campsite.
Day 3 was beautiful. Despite two grandisimo blisters on my heels, it was my favorite hike. The trail weaved through forest, across streams, over boulders, and along a stoney black&white beach with the sounds of avalanche in the background. From the trail, we experienced some of the greatest views of the Torres mountain range.
On Day 4, the guys schemed a plan to go ahead with minimal gear (meaning one tent for four of us) since they were hiking at almost 1.5 times our speed. That was a hard hike uphill for an hour but still through beautiful terrain and great views.
Our last day, we woke at 4:30am so we could catch sunrise at Torres del Paine, the grand prize. Torres del Paine is a set of towers formed by geologic magic. As the sun peeks over the horizon, it's light hits the towers and lights them up in awesome oranges and reds. The hike up may have been my lowest point just because my feet were in so much pain, Nati too had twisted her knee and the two of us nearly cried while climbing up what seemed a never ending pile of boulders. But it was all well worth it. Sunrise was beautiful and I felt so accomplished that I made it through 5 days of trekking.
Looking back though, we didn't rough it too much. We cooked great meals of spaghetti bolognese and Irish stew. Porridge for breakfast. Hot soup, salami, tuna salad, and crackers for lunch. We didn't even need to carry water because all of the water in the streams and lake is drinkable and very tasty. I even got to take one shower. Still, I proudly declare that I have hiked The W.
Perito Moreno is the half-way point between El Calafate and Bariloche. It's a quiet town with one main street. It is also the home of Cuevas de Las Manos (Cave of Hands). Nati and I stayed here a couple of days extra while the Irish boys moved on. The tour of the caves was really interesting. There are about 70 caves in the region with hand prints painted with minerals, guanaco blood, and spit. Hundreds of "I was here!" declarations from 7,000 to 3,000 BC. One 6-fingered hand, only 33 left hands of 859 total, and one foot. Maricelo, our hostel owner, took us in for two days as surrogate daughters. He made us pizza and had breakfast ready for us each morning!
All along this trip through Patagonia, I have California in the back of my mind. Much of the scenery is very similar to those you'd find in CA. The Sierras, Lake Tahoe, Death Valley, boring farmlands, beaches are all here just on a grander scale. Makes me appreciate home.
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